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Topic: best thing for restoring formica shine? |
Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 8 Nov 2008 9:41 am |
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I'm about to restore a '78 P/P. This will include complete dis-assembly, changer axle replacement and metal polishing.
The black gloss Formica is hazy in on the top surface from playing etc. Is there any particular polish or abrasive that will shine her back up? |
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Steve Hitsman
From:
Waterloo, IL
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Posted 8 Nov 2008 2:00 pm
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| Meguire's car polish. |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 8 Nov 2008 2:19 pm
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| The color and gloss layer on these materials is extremely thin, probably no more than one or two thousandths of an inch. Go real easy polishing it, or you'll be left with about as much gloss as a newspaper. |
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john widgren
From:
Wilton CT
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Posted 8 Nov 2008 2:46 pm mica
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| Try "armor all" before you polish...polish as last resort |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 8 Nov 2008 3:21 pm
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I've used Teflon based car polish on my Franklin, since it was new. The "nevamar" brand (rosewood) mica still looks new and shines.
Before I got the Franklin I had a 71 black mica Emmons PP and I used the same thing on it. |
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Steve English
From:
Baja, Arizona
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Posted 8 Nov 2008 6:10 pm
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Tony,
I vote that you do a very detailed, step by step pictorial of your project.
Sure would be fun to see the whole process 
_________________
Always remember you're unique..... Just like everyone else |
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Darrell Hodges
From:
Texas, USA
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Posted 8 Nov 2008 10:26 pm
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Tony,
The best bet is to very carefully pry the mica off and have a cabinet shop cut new formica using your pattern. They have a machine that will cut smoothly. Follow the directions on a can of contact adhesive. Veneer blind louvers are great for getting it in place before sticking it down.
Usually when mica is scratched, waxes or compounds may help but the dull places will eventually be back.
For aluminum go on line and get some Gord's aluminum polish. Really great stuff. I polished the pontoons on my boat and it looks like a mirror.
Good Luck!!
Darrell Hodges |
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john widgren
From:
Wilton CT
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Posted 9 Nov 2008 7:48 am Mica
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| I respectfully disagree with Darrell. I think that a vintage push pull with original but aged (not damaged) mica is more desirable than than a re mica. I would try the armor all, then the least possible abrasive polish, before a re-mica. PS home depot sells formica polish. |
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Len Amaral
From:
Rehoboth,MA 02769
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Posted 9 Nov 2008 8:18 am
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| If I remember correctly, Bobbe Seymour commented that mica on a steel guitar body should be applied under pressure with a certain process. The implication was to mica a steel guitar like you would a counter top could impact the tone of the guitar. |
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Dave Diehl
From:
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
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Posted 9 Nov 2008 2:59 pm
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| I've always used a fine car posish and wax also and never had a problem. Mica looks great. |
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Steve Hitsman
From:
Waterloo, IL
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Posted 10 Nov 2008 3:49 am
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| FWIW, Meguire's contains NO abrasives. |
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john widgren
From:
Wilton CT
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Posted 10 Nov 2008 7:18 am mica
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| Meguire's ...no abrasives? Good to know. Thanks. |
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John Groover McDuffie
From:
LA California, USA
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Posted 10 Nov 2008 10:12 am
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Not all Meguire's care products are non-abrasive. To put it another way for the double-negative challenged: some Meguire's products do contain abrasives. So choose carefully.
It seems to me, as much as I HATE Home Depot, that a product labeled "Formica polish" would be a good choice for.. hmmm let me see... polishing formica! |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Mike Ester
From:
New Braunfels, Texas, USA
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Posted 10 Nov 2008 6:37 pm
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Page 9 of my Carter manual recommends a "show car" finish, like Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Professional #7, on both their laminate and lacquer guitars.
That would be the second link in the previous post. |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 11 Nov 2008 12:06 am
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Just tried the Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Professional #7: The results......
.....Does buff up the parts of the formica that are still shiny
.....Does not remove haziness or superficial scratches. |
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Dan Galysh
From:
Hendersonville, Tennessee, USA
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Posted 11 Nov 2008 8:19 am
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| I've used #7, too, for years and it works ok. It does have a tendency to dry and buid up around the edges of the mica, which makes it hard to get off sometimes. |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Dan Galysh
From:
Hendersonville, Tennessee, USA
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Posted 11 Nov 2008 8:26 am
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| Thanks, John. I will try it. |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 11 Nov 2008 2:23 pm
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The Teflon based car polish I use is labeled "Las Vegas Show Car Polish". I used to buy it at a Flea Market in Homosassa Springs, Fl, but I haven't seen the guy lately. I've seen the identical type of polish at other Flea Markets under different trade names.
Another benefit of this polish is you can touch the aluminum pieces and it won't leave finger prints. |
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Eric West
From:
Portland, Oregon, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 11 Nov 2008 7:05 pm
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WD 40, enough to cover the surface, and then a blowtorch.....
JUST KIDDING!!!
Great to play with you the other night Tony.
Hopefully we do it at many more of them..
EJL |
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Bo Legg
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Posted 13 Nov 2008 4:45 pm
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Use the same thing to clean and shine your PSG as you use on your kitchen counter tops.
I think I'm going to replace my counter tops with the same Formica I have on my PSG which is the same as my neighbors counter tops.
Maybe I’ll use the old counter top to make me a new steel guitar.
Maybe I'll just go to a cabinet shop and have them make me a counter top and a PSG out of the same Formica.
I think that old Fifties pearl trimmed in chrome would look great.
I think I might have an old Pearl table top somewhere in storage.
I could make me a pad for my PSG out of that old pearl Naugahyde from those chrome chairs.
Maybe I could use those old chrome trim tacks to nail it on with.
I remember the good old days when PSGs were made out of just plain old Birds Eye Maple. |
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