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Post new topic Sho~Bud Rack & Barrel Spacing Question
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Author Topic:  Sho~Bud Rack & Barrel Spacing Question
Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 8 Aug 2008 11:19 pm    
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How much (if any) space should there be between the rack and the barrel on a Sho~Bud?
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Paul Redmond

 

From:
Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 9 Aug 2008 1:45 am    
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Usually .010" to .015" is more than enough. Just so the barrel is 'getting off' of the rack completely so as not to leave the raise or lower hanging up and not returning.
PRR
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James Morehead


From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
Post  Posted 9 Aug 2008 2:47 am    
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I would add to Paul's comment, leave enough space that the barrel does not interferre with the OTHER changes on the same rod, thus "partially engaging".
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John Groover McDuffie


From:
LA California, USA
Post  Posted 9 Aug 2008 5:18 am    
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I think you should also make sure the spring isn't touching the rack when the pull isn't engaged.

The Winnie Winston Book has an excellent passage on how to adjust these guitars - I used it as a guide and my R&B Sho-Bud 6139 was trouble-free for 20 years!

No time now, but I'll try to post his comments later.
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James Morehead


From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
Post  Posted 9 Aug 2008 5:29 am    
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John Groover McDuffie wrote:
I think you should also make sure the spring isn't touching the rack when the pull isn't engaged.


Yes, I think you are talking about the tiny spring in the barrel itself. The nub that sticks out the end of the barrel should clear the rack, unless the lever is engaged.
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 9 Aug 2008 8:10 am    
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Thanks for the info, and so quickly. You guys are great.

I thought I had everything adjusted fine. Played the guitar a few days and it worked fine. All of a sudden Friday night (luckily at home), the 4th E string just lost control. When I would tune the F# raise, the string would come back sharp. I think it is a matter of the spring tip catching the rack even with the pedal not engaged.

Also, the strings that get lowered come back sharp. This means I should lessen the tension on the return springs, right?

Do you start with the start with the barrel spring end tuned in half way to allow an equal amount of tuning in each direction?

Unfortunately, I no longer have Winnie's book.

On the 4th string (which is the only rod on the guitar with 2 barrels (F & F#), do you tune the F first and then the F# or vice versa? Does it really matter?
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mike nolan


From:
Forest Hills, NY USA
Post  Posted 9 Aug 2008 9:30 am    
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If you mean that the open note is sharp after tuning the F# raise, then you probably don't have enough pedal travel. When you tune the F# up, you are actually changing the open tuning..... so back that out so it is not affecting the open tuning and adjust the pedal stop screw to get a little more travel, then tune the raises.
As for the lowers coming back sharp issue..... If I understand what you said, it sounds like the lower is lowering all the way, but returning sharp. It is probably just over return, a somewhat unavoidable issue on nearly all PSGs. Changing the return spring tension probably won't help much, and will introduce other issues with lowers not lowering all the way.
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