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Topic: Joe Morrell Pro 8 String Nut Modification |
Dom Franco
From:
Beaverton, OR, 97007
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Posted 28 Jul 2008 9:43 pm |
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I recently replaced the original plastic nut on my Joe Morrell Pro 8String lap steel.
It accomplished several things:
1. I increased string spacing to ~3/8" at the nut.
2. It has some added sustain with the steel nut.
3. I optimised string height for my favorite gauges.
4. It looks cool.
The main reason for the Mod was that I had trouble switching from my other lap steels because the Morrell had much closer string spacing at the nut.
Now slants are easier, and the spacing is more constant up the neck.
If any of you are intrested in it I can make you a new nut for a very reasonable price. E-mail me:
Domfranco51@hotmail.com
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/userpix0806/369_8_string_morrel_1.jpg[/img]
See photos:
Last edited by Dom Franco on 28 Jul 2008 9:50 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Dom Franco
From:
Beaverton, OR, 97007
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Posted 28 Jul 2008 9:45 pm
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OLD NUT
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Keith Cordell
From:
San Diego
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Posted 29 Jul 2008 3:37 am
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| That was a timely post. I am about to do the same with my Melbert lap steel. |
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Todd Weger
From:
Safety Harbor, FLAUSA
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Posted 29 Jul 2008 3:46 am Slots?
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Dom - did you cut string slots, or are you just running them over the nut?
Looks much better, and the string spacing looks way, way better. Nice job.
TJW
_________________
Todd James Weger --
1956 Fender Stringmaster T-8 (C6, E13, A6); 1960 Fender Stringmaster D-8 (C6, B11/A6); Custom-made 25" aluminum cast "fry pan" with vintage Ricky p'up (C6); 1938 Epiphone Electar (A6); 1953 Oahu Tonemaster; assorted ukuleles; upright bass |
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Dom Franco
From:
Beaverton, OR, 97007
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Posted 29 Jul 2008 4:28 am
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The nut is custom grooved for each string gauge.
I used 1/2 steel angle stock. (aluminum would work and be easier to cut) but not sustain as well.
1. I mark the locations, and make the first cut with a razor saw. (Exacto or similar)
2. I then use a triangular jewelers file to open up the grooves. (Deeper and wider for the bass strings, and very little for the 1st string)
3. I finish off each slot with a mini rat-tail file, and angle the back cut towards each respective tuning shaft.
4. Finally I work each groove and edge with a mini wire wheel to make it very smooth with no sharp edges.
5. I drill and countersink two holes for the screws in the base.
This is the same method I have been using for several years on my custom built lap steels.
http://www.freewebs.com/steelman777/lapsteelguitars.htm
Dom |
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John Burton
From:
Manassas, Va
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Posted 29 Jul 2008 12:17 pm
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Hows'the sound on the Morrell 8's?
Also hows the string spaceing at the Bridge?
I have a Morrell pro-6 that I replaced the nut on awhile back. I love the sound and scale, and keep thinking I should get an 8 stringer, but the Lipstick looking pickup scares me off. |
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Keith Cordell
From:
San Diego
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Posted 29 Jul 2008 2:34 pm
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| Those lipstick pickups are absolutely lovely. |
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Gary Stevenson
From:
Northern New York,USA
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Posted 29 Jul 2008 3:39 pm
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The string spacing must have been very tight!I noticed the original goes straight back on the low string and with you new one it is angled. I have used alum. angle stock which is easy to work with albeit don't make too heavy a cut esp. on low string. Never thought to try steel for the nut. Thanks for sharing your idea.I have stolen all I can from Tom Pettigril  Sorry for bad spelling Tom!! |
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Tom Pettingill
From:
California, USA (deceased)
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Dom Franco
From:
Beaverton, OR, 97007
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Posted 29 Jul 2008 6:21 pm
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I am just guessing, but I think steel builders make the strings closer at the nut, because thats the way standard guitar necks narrow out. But a steel guitar is a DIFFERENT INSTRUMENT! there is no real need to taper string spacing, or is there?
Dom  |
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Keith Cordell
From:
San Diego
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Posted 30 Jul 2008 2:04 am
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| On my Melbert the string spacing is the same all the way down but is as tight as a 12 string PSG. I thought I could get useed to it but I am having it redone as a 7 string, widening the nut and drilling the body so the strings go through. Should be a good 'un when I get done. |
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Robert Allen
From:
Tennessee, USA
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Posted 6 Aug 2010 10:59 am
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I use aluminum and have it powder coated black. For those unfamiliar with powder coating, the metal is heated to 450 degrees F and then sprayed with a plastic powder giving a very thin layer of gloss plastic. It is much more durable than paint and looks nicer than anodized aluminum. Regarding sustain and tone, there are various grades of aluminum. The aluminum I use is as hard as steel. The grooves are laser notched for accurate spacing. I then file the slots deeper for the gauge of strings used. Some of my early lap steels used the narrow Morrell nut but those haven't been on my lap steels for a long time.
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