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Author Topic:  Help needed with broken National New Yorker
Fred Kinbom


From:
Berlin, Germany, via Stockholm, Sweden.
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 1:05 am    
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Today a beautiful 1937 National New Yorker arrived - apart from some worn off paint it is in great cosmetical condition. The chickenhead knob (pickup selector switch) was missing, and the replacment I had bought (thanks to good advice here at the SGF) fitted perfectly! Smile

Then I plugged it in.

The seller had written "all works" in the description. In fact, the only sound coming out of this New Yorker is some scratching noise when I turn the volume knob.

The three-way pickup selector switch - about which I had specificly asked "does it work in all three positions?" and received the answer "yes it seems to be working" - is stuck, it does not move!

Sad

The lap steel was packed very well, and there is no damage to the shipping box (not that I can imagine shipping damage causing these faults anyway).

So, what do I do? It is a beautiful guitar, and I would rather fix it than return it, but the seller has obviously not bothered to check this guitar properly and sold it with misleading and incorrect information. This is the three pickup version of the New Yorker, so the electronics are somewhat unorthodox, and I don't even know if it is fixable.

I have also incurred import tax/duty on this lap steel. Sad

Any advice on how to proceed would be much appreciated. How big a partial refund would be fair to ask for if I opt not to return it? I have already written to the seller explaining the problem and am expecting an answer to see what they have to say for themselves.

Any advice how to loosen than stuck pickup selector switch?

Many thanks in advance!

Fred
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Chris Drew

 

From:
Bristol, UK
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 3:11 am    
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Sorry to hear about your problem Fred...

I guess that fixing it & asking for a partial refund to cover the cost of the parts & hassle would be better than going through the rigmarole of returning it & trying to reclaim the import tax etc... (as it's otherwise a desirable guitar )

Do you have a multimeter to check which components are dodgey? See if you get a good reading from the pups.
Maybe the wiring, switch and/or pots are shot rather than the pickups themselves.

It should be fixable... the selector switch may need replacing, if it's stuck then perhaps an internal component has broken. You should be able to find a rotary switch that will fit right & do the job.

See what response you get from the seller first before deciding how to proceed.

Good luck with this, I hope you get a good outcome!
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Fred Kinbom


From:
Berlin, Germany, via Stockholm, Sweden.
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 3:41 am    
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Thanks Chris for your input! Yes, I do have a multimeter (part of a £10 soldering kit I bought from Argos Wink) - just have to figure out how to use it. Wink I guess I will open it up, take a photo and ask for help here, and proceed with caution.

I agree that a partial refund and fixing this lap steel would be preferable - it is a lovely guitar and getting all the import duty etc. back will probably be a major headache. I will see what the seller has to say.

Regarding the pickup selector switch, this could be a problem, as it is a very odd one. I have an identical 1937 New Yorker (serial number C 92x - this one is C 16x Smile) and when some contact cleaner was needed in the three-way switch on that one, I realised it is a "mechanical" switch that engages/connects with different configurations of "metal tongues" for each of the three pickup configurations.

As long as I receive a substantial partial refund, I would be cool with trying to fix this, as it would be a nice challenge and I would learn from it, but I will see what the seller's position is before I open the lap steel up or tamper with anything.

Cheers,

Fred
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Fred Kinbom


From:
Berlin, Germany, via Stockholm, Sweden.
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 3:51 am    
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UPDATE: The seller has apologised and wonder if a partial refund would be fine. How much would you guys ask for (i.e. what could be the maximum damage if I need to go to a guitar tech with this)?

Fred
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Chris Drew

 

From:
Bristol, UK
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 4:20 am    
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I'm not sure what a guitar-tech would charge for this kind of job, maybe get a quote over the phone & go from there...
Do you know of someone local to you?
( Some "guitar-techs" may not have ever seen anything like a New-Yorker before! )

As far as the refund goes, I'd suggest that the seller is basically buying a lack of negative feedback from you, as well as covering the actual cost of bringing the guitar up to "as described" condition.

If you can take the reading ( in ohms ) from each of the pickups, I think other more knowledgeable folks on this forum would have an idea of what numbers to expect from your multimeter.

If the pups are ok I'd go for a basic "rewire job" & try to find a 3-way rotary switch to fit if you can't get the original working.

Maybe try someone who specialises in vintage amp repairs, they may be a better bet than a regular guitar-tech.

Maybe a switch like this might work...
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Blake Hawkins


From:
Florida
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 5:33 am    
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Fred,
You can probably free up the stuck shaft with some
penetrating oil, followed by lubrication with a light weight machine oil.
Put a couple of drops on the shaft and let it soak in for a few hours, then try to turn the shaft.
Be careful not to scar the shaft as it is likely to be brass or aluminum but could be cadmium plated steel.
Some gentle working back and forth should free it up.
Then give it a drop or two of the machine oil.
I've freed many a stuck switch shaft this way.

Blake
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William Clark

 

Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 5:55 am    
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Hello Fred:

I would probably start out by spraying the switch with contact cleaner with lubricant in it and letting it soak overnight. If that doesn't free it up, you could always try unsoldering the rotary switch and take it apart to see what is going on in side. The cover should have three metal fingers that would have to be bent up to remove the cover. Do this carefully as to not break the metal. Good Luck!!

Bill
Chris Drew

 

From:
Bristol, UK
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 6:07 am    
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If the switch is the same as the one pictured in your IGS forum thread ( ie: open leaf switch ) then yeah, try soaking it in a penetrating lube & then cleaning the rust off the contacts/mechanism with a dremel & one of those wire-brush bits ( use eye protection though Cool , the wires break & fly off Wink <picture this smiley with the mouth the other way up!)

Replacing it with a new one seems like an easier option though.
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Fred Kinbom


From:
Berlin, Germany, via Stockholm, Sweden.
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 6:14 am    
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Thanks Blake, Bill and Chris for the good advice!

To add some info, here are the innards of a broken 1937 7-string - not mine but with identical electronics:



Here is a closer look at the selector switch (with the chickenhead knob):



More pics can be seen at http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=118843 and the preceeding model (with four volume pots - no selector switch) looks like this inside http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=132433.

I will have a peek inside the one I received today when I get back home and post some photos here.

Many thanks again for all the input and please keep chiming in! Smile

Fred
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Blake Hawkins


From:
Florida
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 9:58 am    
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Fred, Some additional comments on cleaning the switch contacts.
In that type of switch the contacts are likely to be "German Silver" or they could be brass.
In either event you can clean them using a "relay burnishing tool" which is a small very fine file used to polish contacts on electrical relays.

Lacking that, use a strip of good quality bond paper.
put some cleaning fluid on it, and insert it between the contacts. Close the contacts and slowly draw it through. Do this several times and it should clean the crud off.
You could also use a business card.

In my previous comments , I do not use spray products for this type of switch. I use oil from a can and apply it with a tooth pick to get one of two drops exactly where I want them.

Blake
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William Fraser

 

From:
New York, USA
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 10:48 am     National
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It may be necessary to dis-connect a wire to open up the ckt ,then you can meter the p/up. I don't know what it should read ,but the capacitor is a part that can go bad ,they dry out , pickups dont just die ,you usually need a human to damage one , clean the pots , & get a friend who can read a meter I,m betting on the switch. De-solder & eliminate it ,to test.Usually a newer cap can be used for testing.If I knew what the p/up should read I could explain how to use the meter. Bill Cool
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Joey Ace


From:
Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 10:58 am    
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Given your situation, import fees, still wanting the instrument,etc., you are fortunate that the seller is offering you anything. It sounds like an eBay deal, so the seller is looking for good feedback.

I don't know what you paid, but I'd assume a refund of $100 is in the fair ballpark.

Another approach is to ask yourself, "What is the maximum amount I would have paid for this instrument, knowing what I know now?" Then ask for the difference, or a return/refund.

However, it sounds like you really want to keep it.
I would.
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Fred Kinbom


From:
Berlin, Germany, via Stockholm, Sweden.
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 11:06 am    
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Thanks everyone for the continued support! Smile

Just to clarify, the pics above are NOT my lap steel, but photos of an identical one. I have now opened this New Yorker up, and it looks pretty untampered with:



Here are two close-ups of the pickup selector switch and the bridge pickup:





And these are the "hidden" pickups under the fretboard:



I have sprayed some contact cleaner on in the switch (and some on the volume pot as it scratches a bit when turned - the only electric sound from this lap steel at present). I will leave it for some time and see what happens.

Regadarding checking the pickups - could someone please be so kind to explain to me how that is done, and how I should "set up" the multimeter? Embarassed

(I have a post about this over at the IGS forum as well - http://www.guitarseminars.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/020731.html - so please check there if someone has answered this before typing any lengthy reply! I am very grateful for all the assistance and don't want to waste anyone's time!)

Thanks! Smile

Fred
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Fred Kinbom


From:
Berlin, Germany, via Stockholm, Sweden.
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 11:16 am    
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And I guess everyone here would like to see this beautiful guitar, not just the electronics - here it is (on the right) next to my other (working) 1937 National New Yorker:



Numbers C 92x and C 16x.

Smile

Fred
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Keith Cordell


From:
San Diego
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 11:24 am    
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Before you decide what to ask for the refund find out if the pickup is the issue. If it is, half the price is not a bad refund for the hassle you'll go to. If not, I'd start at 25% of what you paid and work it out from there.
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John Billings


From:
Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 2:04 pm    
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"The three-way pickup selector switch - about which I had specificly asked "does it work in all three positions?" and received the answer "yes it seems to be working" - is stuck, it does not move!"
Fred, this might be the whole problem. You need to get that shaft turning before you start rippin' things apart. Stateside, we have "Hamfests" where enthusiasts sell all types of gear. If your switch is not repairable, you'll need to replace it. But these old switches are very simple and very durable. Me? I'd get some cleaner/lube into the shaft and start workin' it. If required, clean the contact points as mentioned above. But it's not like the very similar points in an older auto ignition. There's vitually no voltage to speak of that might cause pitting. I'm bettin' it's the locked up shaft that's the problem. Good luck, cuz the guitar's a beauty!
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Bill Creller

 

From:
Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 2:21 pm    
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I agree about freeing up the shaft before doing anything else. When the shaft is turnable, the contacts may work fine. Like mentioned above, passing some paper thru the contacts is the way to clean them. I would not recommend any filing. Like said above, there is no current affecting the contacts, like pitting etc. so just a cleaning with paper should be fine. I would think the frozen shaft is the only fault to deal with.
Those type switches are very simple, and crud is the only enemy Very Happy
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basilh


From:
United Kingdom
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 3:13 pm    
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Fred, send it to me I'll sort it out "Gratis"
Baz
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Alan Brookes


From:
Brummy living in Southern California
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 5:24 pm    
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basilh wrote:
Fred, send it to me I'll sort it out "Gratis"
Baz

Take him up on it, Fred. Basil is an electrical wizard, and I would trust any instrument in his hands.
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Chris Drew

 

From:
Bristol, UK
Post  Posted 21 Apr 2008 11:03 pm    
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Basil is obviously much more than an electrical wizard... the man's a SAINT!
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Fred Kinbom


From:
Berlin, Germany, via Stockholm, Sweden.
Post  Posted 22 Apr 2008 1:09 am    
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Thanks everyone for the good advice!

basilh wrote:
Fred, send it to me I'll sort it out "Gratis"
Baz


Wow Basil - thanks a million for the super kind offer!!! Very Happy

I will (carefully) try to get that switch moving and if I have made no progress in the next few days I will for sure take you up on it!

Thanks so much! Smile

Fred
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Fred Kinbom


From:
Berlin, Germany, via Stockholm, Sweden.
Post  Posted 22 Apr 2008 4:27 pm    
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An update: WE'VE GOT SOUND! Smile

The pickup selector switch is now moving a fraction each way, and when turing it clockwise I can dial in one position where the "hidden" pickups are engaged, and sounding sweet! Smile So I think all the pickups are fine (seem to remember getting some response from the bridge blade pickup too when tapping it at some point) - like has been pointed out above, it seems the frozen shaft of the selector switch is the only problem. Smile

So, I will leave the switch with some oil for longer and try to be patient.

I can't rule out taking you up on your great offer yet Basil - I'll see how this progresses. Smile

Thanks again everyone!

Fred
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Harry Sheppard

 

From:
Kalispell, MT USA
Post  Posted 22 Apr 2008 5:20 pm    
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Fred,

My 7 string 1938 New Yorker had the exact same problem. The 3 way rotary switch did not move at all. Just spray som WD-40 inside the switch, let is soak a while and start moving it back and forth. I was able to lift the top enough to get access to the main part of the switch. I did this years ago and it caused no ill effects and still turns as smooth as the day it was made. Contact cleaner with lube should clear up the scratchy pot. You will have to pull the bridge pickup out of the body a ways to get to that (2 screws). Good luck.


Harry
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William Clark

 

Post  Posted 22 Apr 2008 8:28 pm    
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Fred: When you get this steel working be sure to record something and post it. I always enjoy the stuff you put on youtube. Incidentally, I was going to bid on this guitar but I bought the 1936 Hawaiian Model that is pictured on another post. You got a great deal!

Bill
Fred Kinbom


From:
Berlin, Germany, via Stockholm, Sweden.
Post  Posted 24 Apr 2008 12:38 am    
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Good news - the volume pot is now scratch free and the rotary switch is turning freely all the way! Smile Two of the tone settings are working fully but "Harp" (my favourite of the three) is still not connecting properly, but I hope I will manage to sort this out within the next few days.

Would contact cleaner be the thing to use on the "metal tongues", or another spot of penetrating oil?

Bill - yes I think I saw yours on eBay too - it was a "best offer" auction, wasn't it? A very nice guitar! Smile

Thanks!

Fred
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