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Author Topic:  Problem w/Peavey amps
Cal Sharp


From:
the farm in Kornfield Kounty, TN
Post  Posted 20 Feb 2008 12:45 pm    
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Maybe someone on here knows about this. The plug from the speaker going into the bottom of the chassis won't stay in, just falls out. I've exerted as much pressure as possible, without breaking something. Problem exists with a Nashville 400 and a Bandit. Are you supposed to spray something on it to make it stick or what? Thanks, all.

Later: I tried crimping the female ends and that seems to help, but it still doesn't seem as tight as it should be.





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Bill Crook

 

From:
Goodlettsville, TN , Spending my kid's inheritance
Post  Posted 20 Feb 2008 1:25 pm    
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Hey Cal...
Most of us just solder the wires on ...

Love your playing,sounds really great !

Bil Crook
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Roger Kelly

 

From:
Bristol,Tennessee
Post  Posted 20 Feb 2008 1:28 pm    
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Sounds like a job for Duct Tape...cut a couple of strips the width of your plug long enough to go from your plug to a couple of inches out on the chassis on BOTH side of your plug, after you plug it in. Should help at least for a while. You may be able to find a replacement from Peavey Parts? Hope it works for you.
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Cal Sharp


From:
the farm in Kornfield Kounty, TN
Post  Posted 20 Feb 2008 1:32 pm    
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Thanks, Bill. I'll try that.
Very Happy

Yeah Roger, good ol' duct tape will fix almost anything...

BTW, I was driving a '69 Camaro home from a gig one night and the tailpipe fell off and I wired it up with a 10th string out of my pack a seat and it held for months.




I know, I'm hijacking my own thread. Laughing
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 20 Feb 2008 2:33 pm    
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Mr. Cal. Short of soldering them on, crimping the female connectors should take care of the problem.

May I also say I enjoy your posts and insight into the music business.

And...uh...oh...yeah. That ain't no '69 in your photo! Whoa!
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Cal Sharp


From:
the farm in Kornfield Kounty, TN
Post  Posted 20 Feb 2008 3:07 pm    
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Well, maybe it was a '70. Been a long time, but I do remember tearing the back seat upholstery to shreds with my gear; not the best car to haul a steel guitar around in. But it did get me to the gig pretty fast.

I've crimped (and if you've ever had your female connectors crimped...) - if that doesn't work I'll drag out the soldering iron. And thanks for reading my posts.
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Craig A Davidson


From:
Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin USA
Post  Posted 20 Feb 2008 3:09 pm    
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Cal I look forward to your posts because they always have a light hearted appraoch to things.
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 20 Feb 2008 4:39 pm    
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Peavey did away with the Molex connector for the speaker connection and started just soldering wires to the chassis male pins on later Nashville 400's (and maybe other models). That elimnated loose connections on models that had the Molex connector.
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Cal Sharp


From:
the farm in Kornfield Kounty, TN
Post  Posted 20 Feb 2008 4:46 pm    
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Jack, so what I have is the infamous Molex connector?
And I can cut it off and solder the speaker wires directly to the chassis male pins?
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Craig A Davidson


From:
Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin USA
Post  Posted 20 Feb 2008 4:55 pm    
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That's what I did when I had mine.
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Bob Tuttle


From:
Republic, MO 65738
Post  Posted 20 Feb 2008 6:20 pm    
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Me too.
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Cal Sharp


From:
the farm in Kornfield Kounty, TN
Post  Posted 20 Feb 2008 7:43 pm    
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I'd heard about this dreaded Molex issue before, but didn't realize exactly what it was til now. And now I know why the reverb in all the Peavey amps I've been using for the last 25 years was so unreliable. Thanks for all your input.
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Tommy Young

 

From:
Ethelsville Alabama
Post  Posted 20 Feb 2008 7:45 pm    
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C# HAD THAT SAME THING HAPPEN ON MY NASHVILLE 112 FEW MTS BACK SO THEY HAVEN'T FIXED THAT PROBLEM YET THANKS FOR THE THREADAS I READ MOST ALL OF YOUR THREADS





TOMMY YOUNG
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Clyde Mattocks

 

From:
Kinston, North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 20 Feb 2008 10:33 pm    
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I like a product called "Liquid Nails", you can buy at home improvement stores. It comes in a caulk tube, but also in a small squeeze tube. A small blob
will hold the plug in place and it never gets so hard that you can't remove it with a razor blade.
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 21 Feb 2008 3:06 am    
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Thbe liquid nails is not really a good idea. It will hold it mechanically but there can still be an electrical connection issue. And, if the internal electronics ever needs to be removed for service there is the problem of removing it because of the "glue".

"Molex" connectors (the manufacturer's name) are used extensively throughout the electronics industry. However, the applications that Peavey used them for have not been what they were really designed for. Molex connectors are inexpensive and some manufacturers go for them because of price. Molex connectors are used in PC's and do not have the problems they do with the applications that Peavey used them form.
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Dan Beller-McKenna


From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
Post  Posted 21 Feb 2008 3:21 am    
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I have similar problems with the reverb in my Reno 400. Before I go ahead and do something stupid, are you guys saying you would clip off the molex and solder the corresponding wires directly to the male pines in the bottom of the chasis? Doesn;t this make it difficult to remove the chasis, reverb, etc.?

Dan
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Eric Philippsen


From:
Central Florida USA
Post  Posted 21 Feb 2008 7:25 am    
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I have three NV400s and the Molex connector problem has shown up in all of them. Make no mistake - I love the amp and I'd recommend it right away to anyone. I've used them for 20+ years and still love the sound every night I hit their power switches.

The fix for the speaker wire connector is what's already been mentioned in this thread. That is, the connector can be removed and the speaker wires can be soldered directly to the two chassis posts.

The reverb pan Molex connector is another thing, though. You can't do the solder-fix as used for the speaker wires because then the chassis can't be removed easily without desoldering those four connections. So, I end up tightening the Molex's female connectors. That sometimes ends up being just a temporary fix until they loosen up again down the road.

I wish someone could come up with a fix that used standard RCA jacks. They're easy to use, clean and tighten. For that, perhaps one would first solder wires to the chassis posts and then run those to a small box containing two female RCA jacks. The box could be attached to the underside of the chassis. Then put two male jacks on the reverb pan wires and connect those up.

Last, if someone offered such a simple kit I'd buy it. And my guess is so would a lot of other amp users with the Molex connector problem.
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Blake Hawkins


From:
Florida
Post  Posted 21 Feb 2008 7:29 am    
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My NV400 came with the speaker connections already soldered.
Over the past few years I've fixed some for friends
by soldering directly to the pins. I put a piece of "heat shrink" over each pin for additional insulation.

Dan,
When pulling the chassis, I disconnect the wires at the speaker. It is not difficult to remove the circuit board from the chassis because the wire is fairly short.

So far, I've not changed my reverb connector but Jack Stoner has and could tell you about that.
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Clyde Mattocks

 

From:
Kinston, North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 21 Feb 2008 8:57 am    
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Okay, as far as dissing the Liquid Nails, I've used it for years in this type of application and it has worked for me, but your concerns are duly noted. How about those trailer hookup plugs you can buy in automotive stores. They cinch up tight and come in
any configuration from single connector up to about eight.
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Mike Brown

 

From:
Meridian, Mississippi USA
Post  Posted 21 Feb 2008 9:40 am     Peavey Products
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We discontinued the use of the Molex connectors when the Nashville 1000 and Nashville 112 were introduced back in 1999. These models have connectors that are called IDC connectors which are also used in the computer industry. These are not the same as a molex connector and have proven to be very reliable.

Unless, the Molex connector is repeatly connected and disconnected, there should be no problem with this type of connector. I have owned and used my 1985 Nashville 400 on a regular basis(sometimes every weekend) and I haven't experienced problems with the Molex connector at all. I attribute the problem to disconnecting and reconnecting the Molex numerous times. If the connector is connected and disconnected many times, the female pins will open up which causes a loose connection. However, it is a moot point now.

Granted, the Molex was the latest and greatest connector back in 1980, when the Nashville 400 was introduced and the amplifier must have been reliable as we manufactured this model with the Molex connector for 18 years straight.

My personal opinion(which everyone has one) is that a word such as "Molex" is repeated by a consumer on the internet or otherwise, and it evolves into a "badly designed" connector, when in reality it has not a bad design. It just happens to be what is considered industry standard at that time(1980's). When you figure how many amplifiers(Peavey and other amp manufacturers and computers were manufactured using the Molex connector), the total of problems is really minute.

Nuff said.
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Kevin Hatton

 

From:
Buffalo, N.Y.
Post  Posted 21 Feb 2008 10:04 am    
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As mentioned above, just crimp the female portion with a pair of needle nose pliers. It will stay. Very simple.
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 21 Feb 2008 3:18 pm    
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Molex connectors, along with tube sockets and RCA jacks, should be re-tensioned whenever the amp is serviced. It's "preventive maintenance", just like an oil change in your car. Not only do the speaker and reverb connectors cause a problem, but the power supply connectors inside some amps exhibit similar problems, causing "cutting out" symptoms.
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c c johnson

 

From:
killeen,tx usa * R.I.P.
Post  Posted 21 Feb 2008 5:32 pm    
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I have had a total of eight Peaveys going all the way back to the orig Deuce up to three Nash 112s and have never had a problem to include Molex or what have you. I even dropped the Duece out of a pickup, got to the gig, pluged it in and worked perfectly. Charmed life I guess. cc
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Craig A Davidson


From:
Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin USA
Post  Posted 21 Feb 2008 6:08 pm    
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Eric Philippsen wrote:




I wish someone could come up with a fix that used standard RCA jacks. They're easy to use, clean and tighten. For that, perhaps one would first solder wires to the chassis posts and then run those to a small box containing two female RCA jacks. The box could be attached to the underside of the chassis. Then put two male jacks on the reverb pan wires and connect those up.


You mean like Fender has done to their reissue amps?
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Jody Sanders

 

From:
Magnolia,Texas, R.I.P.
Post  Posted 21 Feb 2008 9:19 pm    
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What C C Johnson said. Jody.
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