questions on pull/release mechanism

Noah Smolian · From: California, USA

Hey everybody, new to the forum. I just purchased an old Marlen S-10 with a pull/release changer. This is my first steel so i'm quite lost on a lot of things, especially how to tune it. Even more so what a pull/release changer is. If somebody can help me out with some basic knowledge on the mechanics of a pull/release, setting her up properly, and tuning it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everybody.
I've attached photos here:

http://s253.photobucket.com/albums/hh52/biaviian/

richard burton · From: Britain

Pull Release mechanisms are fairly simple, but as this is your first pedal steel guitar, I would advise you not to fiddle with anything until you have studied the underside, and gained an insight into how it works.

On the very basic pull-release system, a string will either raise or lower, it will not do both.

Your Marlen is a step above that, and a string will both raise AND lower.

This can cause confusion to newbies.

First of all, the raises should be tuned first, at the keyhead, ie if you are tuning the 5th string, press the A pedal and tune the string at the keyhead to C#
Now release the pedal, and tune the 5th string to B, using the screw at the very top of the changer (see photo), NOT the nylon adjusters.

The 4th string will be a slightly different procedure, as it not only raises AND lowers, it is also raised twice, from E to F, and from E to F#.

The finger will be held in the middle (E) position by a spring, somewhere under the steel (maybe the spring in this picture)

From looking at the pictures, I'm assuming that the 4th string is tuned as follows:

Press the C pedal, and tune the string to F# at the keyhead.

Release the pedal, and tune the string to E using whichever nylon tuner is connected (via a rod) to the bellcrank with the spring assembly.

Activate the knee lever that raises the 4th string a semitone, and tune the string to F using the nylon tuner attached to the rod from that knee lever.

Release that knee lever, and activate the knee lever that lowers the 4th string a semitone, and tune the string to Eb using the screw at the very top of the changer, NOT any of the nylon tuners.

Disclaimer:

My pull-release steel is slightly different to this Marlen, so I am just going off the photos, and may not be 100% correct.

richard burton · From: Britain

I must apologise for the rather patronising tone of my previous post, it's unintentional, but it's very difficult to give this sort of advice, and not come over as patronising.

Noah Smolian · From: California, USA

thanks for the info Richard, in no way was that patronizing. Everything you said about my setup seems to spot on. This whole process seems extremely confusing, but with a little work will become easier and easier. A few more questions on this topic.
This is what i have inferred from your response.
Tune all the open strings at the key head first.
tune the A+B pedals at the key head.
once A+B pedals are tuned, release, and re tune open strings at screw on tops of changer.
tune C pedal at key head, release and re tune open string at nylon tuner.
tune 4th string raise at nylon tuner
tune 4th string lower at screw head.

Please tell me if this is correct.
Anybody feel free to make additions or corrections to this process.

Paul Redmond · From: Illinois, USA

The thing that can be confusing about these setups is that there must necessarily be enough 'backlash' in the rods that raise a string to also allow it to lower. This can cause what feels like a sloppy pedal, but that slack, or 'backlash', must be allowed to permit the rod to 'float', or 'drift', when that string is lowered. Aside from that, these are no more difficult to set up than an Emmons p/p. They do tend to be very accurate and repetitive if originally set properly. It's sort of a set-it-once-and-forget-it thing. Once you have it set properly, you'll find that, aside from a wrong string gage or the like, this system will just keep on keeping on indefinitely. They are admittedly crude by today's standards, but will serve you well over the long haul. Those old Marlen's sound so great...don't be discouraged by the extra time it takes to get them working properly. The ends will justify the means for sure. I still have a pull/release setup on my converted S-B Maverick and to this day it works well after almost 30 years. I recently used it on three demos for Winifred Hoffman. Yes, the FP's and KL's feel a bit strange, but I haven't had to reset any of the stops or pulls in over a year (I just pulled this little guy out of mothballs after all these years to get the S-B 'sound' I was looking for). Don't give up. When it's dialed in, the results will be very rewarding.
PRR

Noah Smolian · From: California, USA

thanks alot for the replies. it makes me feel much more confident in my buy. I'm still not all the way there on how to tune the sucker. (i'm still waiting for my tuning wrench in the mail). anymore specifics on how to tune it would be great. Thanks everyone.

Paul Redmond · From: Illinois, USA

Just don't forget the 'necessary' so-called backlash in the pullrods on the strings which are both raised and lowered and you'll be OK. A lot of pickers don't take this into account and wonder why their 'lowers' just won't go down all the way. Put that 'slop' into the rods when setting the guitar up in the first place, and you won't have a problem at all. Old technology by today's standards, but necessary. It'll serve you well over the long haul.
PRR

Forum Index > Pedal Steel		Next oldest topic :: Next newest topic

All times are GMT - 8 Hours	Jump to: