Sho-Bud Cabinet Refinish Question

Tim Kowalski · From: Illinois, USA

I would like to know how the checkering pattern on Sho-Buds is re-applied when refinishing the cabinet. Is there a decal strip or a stencil available? Where can I find them?
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Kevin Mincke · From: Farmington, MN (Twin Cities-South Metro) USA

Tim, that is actually a 1/8" (or less) thickness strip of wood inlaid (wood inlay binding) into the routed groove. I would leave it alone unless it is missing some sections when you refinish it.

Tim Kowalski · From: Illinois, USA

I will have to take a closer look, but it appears to be painted and has an area that is slightly worn thin. It is a Pro III if that makes a difference.
I am sure that it has not been refinished before.
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Bad wine is better than no wine.

Kevin Mincke · From: Farmington, MN (Twin Cities-South Metro) USA

If it's a Pro III it should have inlay unless it's been altered.

Steven Black · From: Gahanna, Ohio, USA

Tim, I have a Sho-Bud pro III too, which John Coop updated for me with new super changers on both necks and re-rodded the guitar and repolished it, the inlay is not a decal, it is a strip which is inserted in the wood, John Coop might be able to do those for you if it is bad looking,Stewart McDonald's carries these strips, also Grizzly.com has them to, but have it done by a professional if you want it to look good.

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

Tim, if the inlay looks like it's "disappearing", it's usually because the guitar has been refinished before (not uncommon, really). Heavy sanding, of the type normally done to remove deep scratches and gouges, will thin out or remove the inlay. Since the inlay's usually pretty thin (less than 1/32"), keep any sanding to an absolute minimum (which also helps maintain the fit of the endplates).

Dan Burnham · From: Greenfield, Tennessee

Tim,

I also am redoing a Shobud Pro III. Go to this site for the inlay.
http://www.mitercraft.com/category_5.htm

Me, Hank Eldridge, and Johnny King, Zane King's dad, are redoing this one I got.

Whoever had the one I got, stripped "PART" of the green off, stained red, leaving the bottom of the aprons green. They also had their initials engraved in the front apron.

This one is taking a lot of work. Donny is right, my inlay was fading. SOOO, I've ordered new inlay, going to route out the the initials, put another figured piece down the center of the apron, Birdseye of course.
I'm either going to leave natural or stain blue.

Dan

Dan
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Alan Brookes · From: Brummy living in Southern California

I stripped down and revarnished two Sho-Bud Crossovers a couple of years ago. As has been mentioned, that pattern is not a transfer, it's inlaid. The only transfer you will need is the Sho-Bud logo, which is available from Bobbe Seymour.

Tim Kowalski · From: Illinois, USA

Guys,

Upon closer examination, you are correct. It appeared to be worn, but it is an illusion created by the finish separating from the wood where it has checked from age.

Thanks for the help. Now I just need to figure out what these doo dads under the guitar are for. It seems that some of the strings go sharp if I press on them with my foot. Laughing

I'M KIDDING!!!
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Bad wine is better than no wine.

Stu Schulman · From: Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)

This is a pic of Tim's guitar when it was here...It's regular Bud inlay,Tim If I were you I wouldn't change those pickups they sound great,Stu Winking

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Dan Burnham · From: Greenfield, Tennessee

Tim,

Here is what I've been dealing with. I didn't realize the metal was in this bad of shape. But with a little bit of elbow grease I think it's going to be fine.

My cabinet was the same color red as yours until I stripped it down. I'll post updates of mine when I get the cabinet finished.

Dan
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BMI S12 Zane Beck's Tuning
www.danburnham.com

John Billings · From: Ohio, USA

Brake cleaner, or carb cleaner helps a lot for the feeelthy metal parts.

Paul Redmond · From: Illinois, USA

I have recently dealt with the inlay problem on a D-10 Miller I've been refurbishing. I found that simply masking off the inlays, sanding dings, nicks, etc. out of the cabinet, then hand-sanding the inlaid areas to take off the bare minimum amount of material, was the cat's meow. BTW I used KUTZIT stripper to get the old finish off. Available at most hardware stores. It evaporates almost too fast, but multiple applications are much better than unglueing everything and having to deal with a gummy mess of slop that can't even be re-installed. The KUTZIT stripper is very topical and doesn't penetrate very deeply. It leaves most everything intact. If in doubt, merely let the cabinet set for a few hours before going any further with the stripping process. The inlays are indeed very thin and must be handled delicately. A little patience at this time will save hours of time later on down the line. Check with a magnifying glass just how far the color pigments have penetrated the wood. This will help you determine how much wood you'll have to sand out of the way and how much of the old color will come back to haunt you if you don't get all or at least most of it removed before re-staining/repainting. A little extra time spent at this stage of the game can help you avoid many hours of grief later on down the line. Please trust me on this!!
PRR

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