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Post new topic JBL 15"'s What's UP?? D-K E's - Best one for Steel ??
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Author Topic:  JBL 15"'s What's UP?? D-K E's - Best one for Steel ??
Bob Bartoli

 

From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 17 Jan 2008 10:58 am    
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I'm all confused as usual with all this JLB D K E pre-fix stuff, which ones are good for the pedal steel, and sound wise , how are they different??? Thanks in advance!!
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Lynn Stafford


From:
Ridgefield, WA USA
Post  Posted 17 Jan 2008 11:43 am     JBL Speakers
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Hi Bob,

I hope all is well! My limited knowelege can explain that the D and K series used alnico magnets, which sound warmer to my ears than the E series ceramic magnets, which are also heavier. I believe the K series is rated at a higher wattage than the D series. For me, the K130 (15") would be my choice for steel. I'm sure other folks with more in depth knowlege will post thier remarks...
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Lynn Stafford

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Rick Johnson


From:
Wheelwright, Ky USA
Post  Posted 17 Jan 2008 12:14 pm    
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Bob

This is from memory so I might be wrong.
The D-130 was a lo-power 20w speaker hz?
The D-130F was a 100w full range 80-6000hz?
The E-140 was a 400w bass/organ 40-2500hz?
The K-130 was a 125w bass/organ 50-6000hz

There is a lot of good info available on JBL's.
I read somewhere that some older Sunn
amps had the D-130F in them but had a
different part number.

Rick

www.rickjohnsoncabs.com
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Dan Tyack

 

From:
Olympia, WA USA
Post  Posted 17 Jan 2008 12:22 pm    
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Bob,

I have found the d130-k130 to be the best sounding (I can't tell much difference between the two). Both of these are Alnico. The e130 is a ceramic magnet with much greater power handling. It sounds more similar to a Black Widow 15". I'd go with a d130 or k130 for a tube amp of 100 watts or less, with a e130 for a high powered transistor amp.
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Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 17 Jan 2008 12:34 pm    
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The designer of these speakers rated the D130F at around 50W. This doesn't mean that it will automatically blow at 100 (or 135 in the ultralinear Vibrosonic Reverb---I know, I know, they weren't really 135W.....and neither were the speakers really meant to be fed 100W) but it explains why they did have a history of blowing in the higher power amps.
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Jamie Danter

 

Post  Posted 17 Jan 2008 3:46 pm     JBL Historical Threads
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Found these Links while researching the specs on the JBL D130 in the early Session amps.

jamie
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 18 Jan 2008 3:43 am    
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I had a K130-4 in my AB768 chassis Twin Reverb. Just what it needed for Pedal Steel. Had to special order the 4 ohm model at the time (mid 70's) as they were not a "standard" item.
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Tim Bridges

 

From:
Hoover, Alabama, USA
Post  Posted 18 Jan 2008 6:09 am    
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The D-130F does not have the power rating for a Twin. I just went through this scenario with Ken Fox. Ken really did a GREAT job modding my Twin. Channel 1 has steel mod with reverb, channel 2 is set up for Tele. Yes, 2 amps in one without an AB switch.

Back to topic, we ended up using a K-130 8 ohm speaker. Keep in mind that the normal impedance is 4 ohms out of the Twin. However, Ken recommended a dummy 1/4" jack in the speaker out jack (this jack is grounded to itself; consequently 0 ohms) and to run the 8 ohm K-130 out of the ext. speaker out. Now the amp sees 8 ohms and everything matches up. There are some JBL archives that state the D-130F was rated for 35 watts. I was also told that alot of the D-130F series were blown while being used in amps with too much power. I corresponded with Ted Weber and he said that Weber does not have any speakers to handle the power rating of the 100-135 watt Twins, but hoped to develop in the future.
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Jay Fagerlie


From:
Lotus, California, USA
Post  Posted 18 Jan 2008 6:29 am    
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I don't see how that will work, Tim
0 ohms is 0.....the amp is running into a short....
If it is just to run the signal to the ext. jack, why not just use the ext jack?

Maybe I just need another cup of coffee.....

Jay
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Tim Bridges

 

From:
Hoover, Alabama, USA
Post  Posted 18 Jan 2008 6:49 am    
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I hope that Ken, or someone else will explain this to you. Anyway, Ken said that by installing the dummy jack (shorted out) that the amps circuitry is such that this allows the amp to work with the K-130 8 ohm speaker at 8 ohms at 135 watts power. It won't work in the normal speaker out because it wants to see 4 ohms. I can tell you that prior to Ken doing his magic, the amp was at ~30% less power driving an 8 ohm speaker out of a 4 ohm circuit; this was out of the normal speaker out. After we did the dummy jack out of the ext. speaker jack, the change is discernibly different. That's all I can explain. There are several amp tech's on the forum that can do a better job explaining exactly how this works.
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Scott Swartz


From:
St. Louis, MO
Post  Posted 18 Jan 2008 8:16 am    
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On any Twin with a non tapped secondary winding (BF, early SF) on the output transformer, the jacks are in parallel, so the "insert a jack to match 8 ohms" can't work, BUT on the 135W Twins the secondary winding is tapped and there is a switching scheme, so there it could work. Check out the schematics at

http://www.ampwares.com/ffg/index.html
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Scott Swartz
Steeltronics - Steel Guitar Pickups
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Ronald Sikes


From:
Corsicana, Tx
Post  Posted 18 Jan 2008 12:49 pm    
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Here's one site I found.
E140-8 Bass and Keyboard
E130-8 Guitar
http://www.usspeaker.com/jbl-e%20series-1.htm
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Show Pro #26 & #83,BJS bars,Stereo Steel,Tommy Huff cabs loaded with JBL D130's, Wampler pedals,NV112,NV400, Steelers Choice Seats
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Mike Neer


From:
NJ
Post  Posted 18 Jan 2008 2:51 pm    
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Rick Johnson wrote:
Bob

I read somewhere that some older Sunn
amps had the D-130F in them but had a
different part number.



This true, Rick. It was labeled as a D15S. I have one at 16 ohms (really 8 ohms) and it's identical to my D130-F.
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