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Topic: Need Help What Would You Do ????? (Fender 1000) |
Ernest Cawby
From:
Lake City, Florida, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 2 Jan 2008 9:22 am |
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I have a Fender 1000, it has 4 pedals on the front neck.
I would like to have 3 knee levers set up like my other guitars. How bad will it hurt resale if I decided to sell??
The back neck will be set up like Don Helms tuning, E13.
A steel builder friend has offered to do the work, what to do is the question.
I want to play this guitar but if I decide to sell would it hurt the value ??
You opinion is valued.
ernie |
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Don Sulesky
From:
Citrus County, FL, Orig. from MA & NH
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Posted 2 Jan 2008 9:33 am
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Ernie
Continue to play your Carter and Sho-Bud and leave the Fender as is.   
Don |
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b0b
From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
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Posted 2 Jan 2008 9:41 am
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As these guitars get older, the "original" aspect makes them more valuable to collectors. I bought a Fender 1000 last year, and I resisted the temptation to add knee levers or other extra mechanical parts.
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Fred Glave
From:
McHenry, Illinois, USA
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Posted 2 Jan 2008 11:26 am
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| It depends on a lot of things with the Fender. Is it in good shape now? If it is in "collector" shape, you may want to re-think it. The knee levers can probably be removed anytime, but you'll leave screw holes. Since the guitar uses cables, you don't have to worry about adding all the hardware that new guitars need, and thus making permanent modifications that a collector would not like. All you need are fulcrums to attach cable to. I've got an old Fender 2000 that was already "Frankensteined" when I got it. I put 4 kneelevers on it and it's okay. It goes without saying though, that the knee levers don't play as nicely as my Sierra Crown. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 2 Jan 2008 2:25 pm
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I am normally very reluctant to mod a vintage instrument...however, Fender steels have become an acxepted anomaly in the collector's world. First,they have not and never will reach the lofty pricing of comparable-year Fender six-strings and basses (50's Teles going for 10k plus regularly), and collectors quite used to minor things like screw holes in the underside of the body. Mint examples may be an exception,but a normally played 1000 will possibly gain...not lose...value with knee levers competently installed.
FWIW I would not change a thing on my '63 Jaguar but had no problem installing knee levers on my 1000.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Jerry H. Moore
From:
Newnan, GA, USA
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Posted 2 Jan 2008 4:15 pm
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| Make sure you can use the copedent you want on the 1000. With the original changer you can't use double lowers. I added a lever to lower the E's and played it for a while but removed it to sell it. It didn't hurt the value but I wish I had left it alone. It was all original up to that point. I thought about adding a piece of 1/2 plywood underneath fastened somehow with original holes and adding hardware to that but bought another guitar and had to sell the 1000. There's pictures all over the forum on this subject. Good Luck! |
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Alvin Blaine
From:
Picture Rocks, Arizona, USA
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Posted 2 Jan 2008 4:53 pm
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| Jim Sliff wrote: |
I am normally very reluctant to mod a vintage instrument...however, Fender steels have become an acxepted anomaly in the collector's world. First,they have not and never will reach the lofty pricing of comparable-year Fender six-strings and basses (50's Teles going for 10k plus regularly), and collectors quite used to minor things like screw holes in the underside of the body. Mint examples may be an exception,but a normally played 1000 will possibly gain...not lose...value with knee levers competently installed.
FWIW I would not change a thing on my '63 Jaguar but had no problem installing knee levers on my 1000. |
I completely agree with Jim.
A Fender 1000 sold new in '58 for about what $450, and now today you can get one in very good condition for $800 to $900.
So over 50 years they have just now(the past few years) doubled in price. If you adjust for inflation, they have actually dropped in value to almost 1/5 of the original price.
Not much collector value there!
If you mod it and make it a playable instrument for you then the usable value goes up.
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http://www.facebook.com/cowboytwang |
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Robert Harper
From:
Alabama, USA
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Posted 2 Jan 2008 5:54 pm Poll Question
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How many have made any money selling vintage guitars. Leaving out the retail outlets? Me I like the post leave the 1000 alone and play the sho-bud or the Carter
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"Oh what a tangled web we weave when we first begin to deceive" Someone Famous |
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Robert Harper
From:
Alabama, USA
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Posted 2 Jan 2008 5:58 pm 1959
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However I barely remeber 1959. Lets see Was it Hawaii or Alaska became a state. Zip codes come into existance about this time. Cokes were a nickle. Both of my parents were alive
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"Oh what a tangled web we weave when we first begin to deceive" Someone Famous |
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Alvin Blaine
From:
Picture Rocks, Arizona, USA
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Posted 2 Jan 2008 7:57 pm Re: Poll Question
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| Robert Harper wrote: |
| Me I like the post leave the 1000 alone and play the sho-bud or the Carter |
That's exactly why they don't get the $$ any other steel does. If more guys pulled the Fender's out of storage and fixed them up the way they like, then started playing them on gigs, I would be willing to bet that the prices would double in no time.
What use is a steel that you don't or can't play?
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http://www.oldbluesound.com/about.htm
http://www.facebook.com/cowboytwang |
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Robert Harper
From:
Alabama, USA
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Posted 2 Jan 2008 8:43 pm A steel not used or played
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Worthless. I have one like that however, I hesitate to let it go
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"Oh what a tangled web we weave when we first begin to deceive" Someone Famous |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 2 Jan 2008 9:23 pm
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| Quote: |
| Make sure you can use the copedent you want on the 1000. With the original changer you can't use double lowers. |
That's actually a simple mod that requires one screw hole under the guitar, a shobud barrel tuner, and a piece of "L" angle steel (1"x1") as a stop,with a hole for the cable to run through (plus a propane torch and the right solder, flux etc.). Plenty of pictures have been posted about this, and it works like a charm. If you have any experience soldering heavier wire/cable (like 1/16" galvanized) it's a bout a 10 minute job. Double raise and double lower mods are commonplace when knees are added. Both my B6 8 strings have a double lower on the first string (1/2 and a full step) and a double raise on the 4th ( a full step and 1 1/2 steps!)
As far as making money selling vintage guitars/equipment - Well, I have some horror stories from the 70's of stuff I sold for peanuts, but since then I've done fairly well, to be honest. The trick is to not get emotionally attached to every instrument and know your stuff - there are far too many fakes floating around. Heck, at least half the Fender steels I've seen for sale have changed parts, and they're not exactly collector's items.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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