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Topic: To file or not to file, that is the question |
Richard Tipple
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 23 Dec 2007 10:05 am |
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Since the days of the cave man, long before the all pull guitars, we have been rasping the top of our changers to get those pesky grooves out. But after many raspings, does this not create some what of an out of round changer????
If this is true, does it not create a problem with string buzz because of an out of round changer.
Seems to me, unless one can file a slight groove out in a total symetrical curvature of the changer, every time one does so, they are curing one problem, and creating another 
Break a string, file the changer, file the changer, get string buzz 
OR!! do we have the changers re-curved every so often at the local machine shop  ??
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steelguitarguy.com |
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John Roche
From:
England
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Posted 23 Dec 2007 11:15 am
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| Richard, I use a sponge type pad with a very fine abresive side on it , this will curve around the changer and keep the shape. I then use a fine polish to bring back the shine to the changer. |
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Richard Tipple
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 23 Dec 2007 11:39 am file
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John, thats a great idea 
_________________
steelguitarguy.com |
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Eric West
From:
Portland, Oregon, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 23 Dec 2007 12:15 pm
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I filed my ProIII changers out of round after a few literally thousand gigs.
It really sucked, and I wish I'd have found something like very fine mylar to go around them instead. I've even used a piece of paper with good results.
Also it puts the string lower than the others, but it's pretty minor.
I'd use scotch brite, if you must.
I've got a couple years on my Marrs, and I dont' even want to look. I can't hear them on stage, so I won't.
A flat file on a round changer that you count on to be uniform is asking for trouble.
Be sure it's not a 'princess and the pea' type thing, or just a string with a flat spot to begin with.
Lots of stuff that drives you nuts in the basement goes away with a hundred watts.
Filing is a one way trip.
JMHO.
EJL |
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richard burton
From:
Britain
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Posted 23 Dec 2007 12:24 pm
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I'm with Eric on this one.
Never use a file. |
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Bo Borland
From:
South Jersey -
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Posted 23 Dec 2007 5:50 pm
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Take a rasp to your changer???  That's crazy! Use a pencil eraser or a piece of ultra fine emory paper,brass wool, or the like and try to keep the grit out of the changer.
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Bo Borland
Rittenberry SD10 , Derby D-10, Quilter TT12, Peavey Session 400 w/ JBL, NV112, Fender Blues Jr. , 1974 Dobro 60N squareneck, Rickenbacher NS lapsteel, 1973 Telecaster Thinline, 1979 blonde/black Frankenstrat
Currently picking with
Mason Dixon Band masondixonband.net |
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Richard Tipple
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 23 Dec 2007 6:56 pm
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Woa there Bo  the rasp thing was just a bit of humor 
you have good ideas there though
_________________
steelguitarguy.com |
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Andy Sandoval
From:
Bakersfield, California, USA
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Posted 23 Dec 2007 8:02 pm
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| I've found that emery boards, the ones with a fine side and an even finer grit on the other side work pretty good. I cut them into strips just wide enough to fit the finger radius.Just keep it movin so you don't wear a flat spot. They're flexible enough so you can bend them a little too. |
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James Cann
From:
Phoenix, AZ
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Posted 24 Dec 2007 7:38 am
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| Boy, what a can of worms this could be! |
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CrowBear Schmitt
From:
Ariege, - PairO'knees, - France
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Posted 24 Dec 2007 9:21 am
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i use a very fine grain supple wheel from my Dremel that i keep in my pick & bar pouch
i do it by hand, just enough to get the burr away |
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Andy Sandoval
From:
Bakersfield, California, USA
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Posted 24 Dec 2007 9:45 am
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Boy, what a can of worms this could be!
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Could very well be, especially if you don't know what your doin. |
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Chris Lucker
From:
Los Angeles, California USA
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Posted 25 Dec 2007 9:19 pm
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I have done a number of Emmons push pull changers by removing the axle and changer and washers, secure the entire changer in a vise (the wide way, meaning the ends of the axles touch the jaws) and polish with wet 600 wet dry paper and move on to 800 and whatever I have on hand over 1,000 grit. Polish as though you were polishing the ties of your shoes. Hold the wet/dry as far below the changer tops as you can without hitting the string ball retainer pins.
I usually machine new axles at the same time and polish by hand the pillar tops as I may scratch them removing the axles. The axles really get fused into the pillar ends. Dissimilar metal reaction, perhaps. |
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Kevin Hatton
From:
Buffalo, N.Y.
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Posted 26 Dec 2007 1:21 am
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| ZB's have replacable changer caps. Very easy. |
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Ron Page
From:
Penn Yan, NY USA
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Posted 26 Dec 2007 11:58 am
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I recently followed something Paul Franklin Jr. posted on the old forum years ago. I used 600 grit wet sand paper and was careful to sand to the contour with very light pressure--not sanding any flat spots in. PF recommended this only if there are not signifcant grooves already in the fingers. He repeats it about every 4th string change.
He recommended finishing with Cymbal Rouge, but I just polished it with the Emmons Aluminum Polish I bought with my steel. I'm sure an all metal polish would work but the Emmons is on a wool like fabric and doesn't leave much residue.
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HagFan
Emmons Lashley LeGrande II |
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Eric West
From:
Portland, Oregon, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 26 Dec 2007 4:46 pm
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Just checked this one before it fades away.
I remember one of the problems with filing grooves is that the place that it buzzes is the end of the groove, or very near it.
When you sandpaper, or otherwise abrade the groove, you can easily be creating another buzz point. Especially when the pedal is depressed and the finger is rolled.
My PIII had a VERY hard life, and I didn't resort to foolishly filing until about 15 years, but I do remember getting good results with a piece of paper. It very slightly damped the string, but it was a lot better than the buzz. Like I said a thin strip or mylar would probably have worked a lot better.
I didn't have time, as I was too busy playing it and making money..
One of the problems with a lot of guitars is that the surface of the finger is plated, and under that lies a soft layer of copper, and an even softer layer of pot metal. On those guitars, which are a lot of later SBs, having them machined down into the pot metal would get you an instant nightmare.
Before I sent any out, I'd check with Marrs' and see if they would part with some used fingers. Only a few fingers groove badly. Usually the 3 and 5, and when turned in for a rebuild, most of the fingers are not grooved. Duane gave me enough to refinger my PIII when I got my Retrofit Professional from him.
I dunno what Mr Coop makes for fingers, but whole new ones would be better by the time you chucked up and milled or otherwise abused your old fingers, finding that you now have strings that are lower than the others..
Sending them out to a 40$hr machine shop would be a lot more expensive, if you can even find one that will work that cheap..
Just a couple of thoughts..
EJL |
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Paul Redmond
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 27 Dec 2007 10:28 pm
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Every time you file a few 'thou' off the fingers, it reduces the radius of those fingers. That forces the strings to conform to an ever-decreasing radius. That causes longer pulls and shorter string life. Pick ahead of the changer fingers so the salts from your hand don't cause electrolysis between the dissimilar metals and that will be a great help. Just play the thing and forget the little grooves. They're all gonna get 'em sooner or later!!
PRR |
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