loosening stuck legs

Dave Stagner · From: Minnesota, USA

I want to adjust the length of the legs on my Sho-Bud, but they seem stuck! I'm assuming the adjustment point works like a mic stand... twist to loosen, adjust, twist to tighten. Do they move some other way instead? And if not, how do I get them to move?
_________________
I don’t believe in pixie dust, but I believe in magic.

1967 ZB D-10
1990 OMI Dobro
Recording King lap steel with Certano benders

Larry Strawn · From: Golden Valley, Arizona, R.I.P.

Dave,
The collar inside the leg is probably frozen up.
Some folks say to lubricate the collar, others say not to.
The last ones I had frozen up tight I sprayed some penetrating oil [just a little bit] down thru the collar and let it set for a while then I could work them loose.
I'm sure you'll get some more suggestions also, so what ever works the best for you. Very Happy

Larry
_________________
Carter SD/10, 4&5 Hilton Pedal, Peavey Sessions 400, Peavey Renown 400, Home Grown Eff/Rack
"ROCKIN COUNTRY"

Michael Haselman · From: St. Paul

Hey, Dave, you didn't buy my old Pro I from Mark Amundsen did you? Anyway, I've had this problem, and vice grips worked for me. I'd spray a little Liquid Wrench and maybe bang on the thing. If you've a mind, my band Jug will be at Renegade's in Savage tonight and Povlitzki's in Spring Lake Park Sat. Come on out and I'll E9 cliche you to death.
_________________
Mullen RP D10, Peavey NV112, Hilton volume. Hound Dog reso. Piles of other stuff.

Brian LeBlanc · From: Falls Church, Virginia, USA

Yeah, I noticed all the chix at our gigs have...

oh,

different problem...
_________________
'Frenchy' LeBlanc...
ShoBud & Twins

Dave Stagner · From: Minnesota, USA

Dave Stagner · From: Minnesota, USA

Darvin Willhoite · From: Roxton, Tx. USA

I have loosened the clutch on several stuck legs like this. I wrap the end of the leg, including the threaded plug, with leather and clamp it in a vise. (If you clamp it anywhere but at the leg plug, you can crush the tubing.) I then use a large set of vise grips clamped around the clutch, to turn it. This works especially well on the old Atlas mic stand clutches with the long, deep serrations. If the clutch is knurled, I use another piece of leather to cushion the vise grip jaws.
_________________
Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro.

Michael Haselman · From: St. Paul

No, Dave that wouldn't be my old one. I'm going to try and buy it back one of these days. If you got it at Willie's, you probably paid too much. I also play with Janie Miller the 3rd Sunday of the month at the Mpls. Eagles. Real country stuff there. Yeah, we're booked at Povlitzki's tomorrow night, could be a snow-out. Hope to meet up with you some day.
_________________
Mullen RP D10, Peavey NV112, Hilton volume. Hound Dog reso. Piles of other stuff.

Alan Brookes · From: Brummy living in Southern California

Squirt WD40 into the joint. Leave it for a minute, then attach two strap wrenches to the leg and twist for all your might. Don't use a plumber's wrench or anything with grooves on it. The leg will come out but you'll have marks on it. A strap wrench leaves no marks.

Tommy Young · From: Ethelsville Alabama

ALAN if i may sorry but """""PLEASE NEVER EVER"""use WD40 on nothing about a STEEL GUITAR NEVER I just spent the most part of the day working on changer parts that had WD40 on them and it has to be the most pitiful excuse for a lubricant that could ever be used. if you had to work on anything after its use YOU would shoot and ask ???? later sorry for the vent

TOMMY YOUNG
MAX-TONE MODIFICATIONS
WHEN YOUR GUITARS TONE HAS TO BE ITS VERY BEST
662-328-5742 tyoung52@wildblue.net

PS: THE ONLY GOOD USE FOR WD40 IS""""A WASP STING"""PERIOD

Dave Stagner · From: Minnesota, USA

John Billings · From: Ohio, USA

Tommy, find a gearhead or a gas station with an auto parts cleaner. If you could put the whole changer in, like an old Shobud changer, you would have been done in 10 minutes.
Alan is right about the band clamps. And I've seen them for cheap somewhere around here. Hardware store, Lowe's?? And they're handy to have around the house for opening jars and such. I've seen them at auto stores, for removing oil filters, although they might not adjust down small enough.
If they're super stuck, you'll have to use some kinda penetrating oil, and WD might work as well as any other. When you're done, spray the stuff off with brake cleaner. Lube it with Triflo, and you're good to go!

Alan Brookes · From: Brummy living in Southern California

Michael Haselman · From: St. Paul

I think you could also use vice grips with a piece or rubber or something in between. And I don't know if anyone's noticed, but Liquid Wrench smells supiciously like WD40 to me.
_________________
Mullen RP D10, Peavey NV112, Hilton volume. Hound Dog reso. Piles of other stuff.

John Billings · From: Ohio, USA

Michael, the problem with Vise-grips is the possibility of deforming the tubing, A strap clamp wraps around the tubing and exerts equal force all the way around. Vise-grips don't. Not sayin' they wouldn't do the job but,,, you're takin' a chance. I just remembered that strap clamps are available in the plumbing department also. They're used to tighten/loosen things like shower heads and tup spouts, etc., without marring them. I've got one somewhere! It was cheap.

Tommy Young · From: Ethelsville Alabama

John, I have been soaking the changers in parts washer fluid for over a week now and it just doesn't cut it now soaking in mineral sprites hope this works better anyone have any suggestions here ???????? next will try maybe transmission fluid

Alan, as I stated earlier the """ONLY""" possible use for WD40 is it will kill the pain if you get wasp stung HAHA""" if you want a good penetrant try """PB Blaster""" it seems to work real well and yes I buy """TRI-FLOW by the case here for use on my steels and all of them that I work on and is is the only lubricant that I trust on these very delicate mechanisms

Bordley Palk · From: North Carolina, USA

WD-40 is NOT a lubrication. Spray a little on a CLEAN piece of metal. Let it dry. Wipe your finger across it.
Rub fingers together. That is not a lub. It's a gritty mess.
Tommy I don't know what to use to clean it off. But your right, it just gums up the works.
Note: how many drummers carry it to get rid of squicky pedals? Tell them to use 3in1 oil. The nose stops.

John Billings · From: Ohio, USA

Tommy, have you tried CHEM-DIP? It's for cleaning old, nasty carbs. Even gets the varnish off in 15 to 30 minutes. Got it at Auto Zone.

Tommy Young · From: Ethelsville Alabama

John no I haven't tried that yet as that stuff really smells bad and is hard to get that off also I dont want this guitar smelly if this mineral spirits doesn't work thought i might try some carb sprays or clorinated solvents ""brake cleaner"""maybe, I had to get a new axles for the changers it had some ruff spots that I didn't like so you guy;'s that allow such very crappy stuff as wd40 """WATER DISPLACEMENT #40""" IN YOUR HOUSE DON'T CALL ME WHEN IT DOESN'T DO ANYTHING BUT unfix your equipment. sorry guy's for this rant just had to vent I litterly hate that stuff, but it does stop the pain from a wasp or bee sting fact so everything has a purpose i guess

TOMMY YOUNG
MAX-TONE MODIFICATIONS
WHEN YOUR GUITARS TONE HAS TO BE ITS VERY BEST

David Doggett · Posted 2 Dec 2007 9:12 pm

I think WD40 is meant for rusted or corroded joints or screws. Then it has to be rinsed away with a solvent, maybe lighter fluid or kerosene. Then the parts have to be wiped clean of the solvent. Then the parts are lubricated, if they are moving parts. So there is a purpose for WD40, but it is not a permanent lubricant. If left on the parts, it leaves a residue. I'm not sure what it takes to get that residue off, probably something pretty strong.

Jerry Roller · From: Van Buren, Arkansas USA

I would shoot the WD-40 to the clutch, get it loose, clean it up good with lacquer thinner after using a wire brush if there has been any rust accumulation. Use a small amount of oil on the threads only and put it back together. I would not rule out WD-40 for it intended use just because it is not a good lubricant. It has it's uses and is great for certain purposes and a stuck leg clutch is one of them. Superglue would be terrible poured into a changer but it sure works good for that which it is intended. Smile

Jerry

John Billings · From: Ohio, USA

WD-40 Dissolves cocaine!
WD-40
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

WD-40 spray can

WD-40 spray can from Germany
WD-40 is the trademark of a widely used penetrating oil (cleaner, lubricant and anti-corrosive solution) spray. It was developed in 1953 by Norm Larsen (then working for the Rocket Chemical Company) to eliminate water and prevent corrosion on electrical circuitry. It also has many household uses.
WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement, 40th attempt", a name which came from Larsen's laboratory notebook. Larsen was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion by displacing water, and arrived at the formula on his 40th attempt.[1] One myth is that "WD" stands for "war department".[2]
WD-40 was first used by Convair to protect the outer skin of the Atlas missile from rust and corrosion.[citation needed] The product first became commercially available on store shelves in San Diego in 1958.

Main ingredients, from the material safety data sheet, are:
50%: Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits, somewhat similar to, but not the same as, kerosene)
25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant, carbon dioxide is used now to reduce considerable flammability)
15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
10-%: Inert ingredients
The German version of the mandatory EU safety sheet lists the following safety relevant ingredients:
60-80%: Heavy Naphtha (petroleum product), hydrogen treated
1-5%: Carbon dioxide
It further lists flammability and effects to the human skin when repeatedly exposed to WD-40 as risks when using WD-40. Nitrile gloves and safety glasses should be used. Water is unsuitable for extinguishing burning WD-40.
There is a popular urban legend that the main ingredient in WD-40 is fish oil. Although it is unknown whether the formula contains fish oil, material safety data sheets for the product show that the main ingredient is Stoddard solvent, not fish oil.[3] WD-40 is, however, used by some sea fishermen as an added scent when fishing with bait. This is not advertised because of pollution concerns
[edit]Uses

[edit]Typical uses of WD-40 around the home include
Stopping squeaks in door hinges and generally freeing up simple mechanical items found around the house, such as door locks
Loosening rusting components, such as nuts and screws, so they can be removed
Spraying on hand tools prior to storage to protect against rust
Cleaning objects affected by grease, caked-on dirt or adhesive residue (such as that left behind by sticky tape)
[edit]Typical use of WD-40 in automotive repair include
Driving moisture out of the high and low tension electrical components of a motor engine, so that it can start (particularly on cold days). E.g. cleaning and drying the inside of the cap of the ignition distributor.
Loosening nuts and screws
Cleaning car locks
Cleaning wheels
The WD-40 company claims it is safe for use on all motorcycle chains, but recommended cleaning products vary among chain manufacturers. Tsubaki Chain[4] and RK Chain recommend WD-40 to clean or displace water on all types of chains, including sealed ring.[5]
[edit]Specialty Uses
Leatherman, the manufacturer of the popular multi-tool of the same name, recommends WD-40 as a post-cleaning lubricant to displace water and prevent corrosion.[6]
WD-40 dissolves cocaine.[7]
In Boston, officials repaired the bell atop city-owned Faneuil Hall with daily treatments of WD-40 over the course of a week.[8]
In 2002, John Ashcroft, 79th United States Attorney General (2001-2005), U.S. Senator from Missouri (1995 – 2001) and Governor of Missouri (1985 – 1993) told The New Yorker journalist Jeffrey Toobin "There are only two things necessary in life - WD-40 and duct tape…. WD-40 for things that don't move that should, and duct tape for things that do move but shouldn't."
[edit]Competitors

WD-40's success has spawned a number of competitors in different countries. In Australia, WD-40 is in direct competition with Selleys RP7. At one time there was for sale in Mexico a similar product called "WB-50," whose name apparently had no meaning other than to market it as an alternative to WD-40.[citation needed] GT85 is also common in the United Kingdom. In Germany the common brand is "Caramba." "Kontakt 40" and CRC 5.56 are other similar products.

Steve Norman · From: Seattle Washington, USA

WD = Water Displacer

not a lube

one thing to try is cooling the metal then heating it. Leave it outside in a garage or whatever over night,, take it inside put it by the heater. The metal shrinks somewhat over night,, then expands near the heater. the joint will be mechanically separated slightly by the thermal reaction and will be easier to turn. If this doesnt work, cool it again and try it while its cold. No scratches this way,
_________________
GFI D10, Fender Steel King, Hilton Vpedal,BoBro, National D dobro, Marrs RGS

Paul Redmond · From: Illinois, USA

Tommy Young - I have been using WD-40 as a cutting fluid on aluminum for some 30 years. I've tried all the old-timey lubricants which ranged from lanolin-based hand lotion to kerosene and everything in between. As a machinist with 43 years of this stuff under my belt, I find no better cutting fluid for aluminum alloys than WD-40 even though it was NEVER intended to be so. BTW I have never stuck a tap or broken one tapping holes in aluminum with WD-40. As a lubricant on a steel guitar, you hit the nail on the head. Use Hoppe's Gun Oil instead. OR automatic transmission fluid if you like pink.
PRR

Dave Stagner · From: Minnesota, USA

Forum Index > Pedal Steel	Goto page 1, 2 Next	Next oldest topic :: Next newest topic