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Author Topic:  Lubricating a pedal steel guitar (with pictures)
Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 14 Nov 2007 4:21 pm    
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I stuck my neck out and created a web page showing how to lubricate a steel guitar. While this subject can be controversial, I documented my experience including detailed pics and some info on the Tri-Flow lubricant I used. Hopefully, I can keep adding to this page based on reviewer's comments to create a page that is useful and accurate. It took me about 2 hours to lubricate the guitar including changing both sets of strings (a good time to consider doing the lube job). I kept the picture sizes fairly large so you can see detailed locations.

See it here!!

Greg
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Andy Sandoval


From:
Bakersfield, California, USA
Post  Posted 14 Nov 2007 5:19 pm    
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Greg, that's awesome and will certainly help out a lot of folks that need help. Where's the best place to find that lube?
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Mike Wheeler


From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 14 Nov 2007 5:29 pm    
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Very good page, Greg. Nicely detailed and it covers the subject completely. Congrats.

Once again, you've provided yet another great source of information for anyone needing to learn about the somewhat technical aspects of steel ownership.

Thanks a million. Smile
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 14 Nov 2007 5:44 pm    
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Andy, I live in a small town and didn't have a bike shop to purchase Tri-Flow at and the local Honda motorcycle dealer doesn't sell it. I probably paid too much at Grainger even with my 15% discount.

Is it just me are those Avatars getting old? Time to upgrade my pic.

Thaks for the nice comments Mike. I am sure a lot more could be added to it. What's there now is still way more than I knew 2 weeks ago when I was contemplating what type of "oil" to use.

Greg
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Louis Vallee


From:
Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Post  Posted 14 Nov 2007 6:29 pm    
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Wow,

Very good job Greg
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Hook Moore


From:
South Charleston,West Virginia
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2007 3:00 am    
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Nice job Greg..
Hook

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Blaine Moore
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John Sluszny

 

From:
Brussels, Belgium
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2007 8:24 am    
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Thanks,very helpful !
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Morton Kellas

 

From:
Chazy, NY, USA 1
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2007 8:46 am    
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Greg, In Norwalk, I was able to thank you in person for all of your contributions to the forum. Once again you have taken the time to help fellow steel players. I enjoyed meeting you and listening to your tasteful playing. Thank you!
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Michael Haselman


From:
St. Paul
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2007 10:20 am    
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I think we all need to pitch in and get Greg something nice for Christmas for all the valuable things he does for us. Just one small example: when I just replaced the pot in my Goodrich recently I was about to tear my hair out trying to restring it til I saw his instruction page. Not to mention all the tabs and music.
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Marc Jenkins


From:
Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2007 10:43 am    
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Greg. This is awesome! I have been gearing up to this task for the first time, and this is a big help!

Thanks so much. And ditto Michael on the Goodrich pot replacement instructions as well.
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Jim Eller


From:
Kodak, TN (Michigan transplant)
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2007 11:27 am    
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Greg,

Another superb job!! Nice technical photography.

Thanks,
Jim
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Ken Byng


From:
Southampton, England
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2007 12:29 pm    
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Greg - you are to be commended for the quality of your pictures - macro lens or close-up filter?

They say a picture paints a thousands words, and that's never been truer than in this case. Fantastic.
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Joseph Meditz


From:
Sierra Vista, AZ
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2007 1:16 pm    
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Greg,

Thanks for those instructive pix. But it was hard for me to concentrate on the oiler amidst all that exquisite MSA machinery! It's good to oil that MSA just to groove on the workmanship.

I'd like to try Tri-flow, but I am not sure if it is compatible with the 3 In One oil I have on the changer now.

Joe
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Archie Nicol R.I.P.


From:
Ayrshire, Scotland
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2007 4:52 pm    
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Great stuff, Greg. The underside of the MSA is a beauty to behold. I own a U-12 Millennium myself. This pic. reminds of a much larger well-oiled piece of machinery.



i.e. This:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2R65We4bk0&feature=related

Arch.
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2007 6:58 pm    
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The camera is an Olympus 4M pixel, set to HQ 2200 x 1700 pixels. It has a decent lens with a 10x optical zoom and a large aperture. I convert the pics to jpeg's twice to compress the colors a lot and keep the file sizes small without losing bit detail. I had it set to macro mode and used the flash.

Greg
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Ben Hoare


From:
NSW Australia
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2007 7:44 pm    
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Thanks Greg I am new to the forum and this is most helpful does anyone know where you could buy such a product with the pin point applicator in Australia as I cant find one.
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2007 10:38 pm    
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Ben,

I typed "Triflow Australia" into Google and got a few listings for BMX bike riders that get this stuff in Austrailia. The pinpoint lubricator needle tip is used to force the lube down inside the bike cable jackets. Hope this helps!

Greg
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Ben Hoare


From:
NSW Australia
Post  Posted 16 Nov 2007 5:50 am    
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Thankyou kindly greg Ill check my local bike shop tomorow.
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Colm Chomicky


From:
Kansas, (Prairie Village)
Post  Posted 17 Nov 2007 9:35 am    
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I see the package photo says refillable:

http://www.gregcutshaw.com/Lubricate/29.jpg

Do you know how the applicator is refilled? I have a larger spray can of Triflow, is that what is used to refill the applicator? The large can is rather hard to control for precise lubricating.
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 17 Nov 2007 11:09 am    
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Colm, I just looked at mine and the silver tip is just like the needle valve that screws in at the end of a basketball air pump. You just unscrew the silver needle and the whole top is open!

Greg


Last edited by Greg Cutshaw on 17 Nov 2007 5:18 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Bill Ford


From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
Post  Posted 17 Nov 2007 5:11 pm    
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Thanks Greg,
There is a Grainger locally, gonna try there.Nice website..good work.

Bill
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Jim Means

 

From:
Missouri, USA
Post  Posted 23 Nov 2007 8:09 am     Tri-Flow
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Greg,
First of all, thank you for all of the information that you share with us on the forum. Your information has been a big help to me. Your page with the pictures on lubricating are great.
Earlier in this thread Joseph Meditz mentioned having used 3 and 1 oil on his steel in the past. Would there be any problems just changing to Tri-Flow? Would it just flush out the previous lubricant or would there be problems from mixing the two? If the 3 and 1 oil (or any other lubricant) would need to be flushed out first what should be used.
Once again thank you for all you do on the forum.

Jim in Misssouri
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2007 4:40 pm    
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Jim,

I've had steels so gummed up with oil and the crud it absorbs that they had to be disassembled, cleaned and re-lubed. If you've got parts sticking and visible signs of previous oil jobs, that's a sign it's time to tear the steel apart. Same if you see what appears to be dried grease remnants in the changer or cross shafts. Otherwise, it wouldn't hurt to try the Tri-Flow but it's effectivenss will be limited if it's just floating in a sea of oil. You won't get the desired coat of teflon on the bearing surfaces.

Greg
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Jim Bob Sedgwick

 

From:
Clinton, Missouri USA
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2007 7:29 pm    
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Greg is absolutely correct. I just tore down my 17 year old Williams. If you haven't done this before.... Be very careful and Chart the changer rod set up. write down the bellcrank slot and the hole in the changer prior to disassembly, for each changer rod. This is CRITICAL. Make sure and mark the rods. I used masking tape and wrote which rod went where. Also, if new to this...... do not start on Wednesday after work and expect it to be ready for The Friday night gig. It's not genius to do this, but does take some skill. It is a great learning experience though.
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Joseph Meditz


From:
Sierra Vista, AZ
Post  Posted 24 Nov 2007 8:59 pm    
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Hi Jim Means,

You might want to stay tuned to see how Tri-Flow works out for me before you do anything. But last week I bought some from a bike shop in a 2 oz bottle that comes with a thin, flexible, plastic tube ideal for getting into tight spots and around components. Since it has been a year since I put oil on the axe, and since I've never taken a steel apart, and since I finally have my axe set just right, I decided to take a chance and oiled the steel without removing the 3 In One oil. Btw, the guitar is only two years old.

So far I am very happy with the result. It feels smoother, and, at the risk of appearing crazy, I believe it actually sounds better!

The carrier from the Tri-Flow has dissolved some dirt from within the changer as evidenced by some dark drips.

FYI, I oiled the changer from the bottom with the guitar upside down and from the top with it right side up, The only other things I oiled are the the cross rods and the nut rollers. The nut rollers also had 3 In One oil on them and are not at all gummy after applying Tri-Flow.

After the Tri-Flow last week and a few bell crank changes today, I can push the pedals just with socks on something unthinkable last year. So now I'm really enjoying my Fessy!

Joe
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