| Author |
Topic: rotating rods on the rack |
Dave Stagner
From:
Minnesota, USA
|
Posted 31 Oct 2007 9:29 pm |
|
Okay, I'm learning how to adjust my rack and barrel Sho-Bud, but one of my rods isn't cooperating. It's the one going to the 5 string, and is attached to both the A and C pedals. It rotates freely, and as far as I can tell, there's nothing designed to prevent it from doing so (unlike most of the other rods, which have hooked ends that prevent them from rotating). Because it rotates freely, I can't adjust the string's travel at the barrel end... when I try to turn the plastic nut, it just spins the rod.
Am I just missing some detail here? Is there some way to lock that shaft rotationally? And if not, is there a good way to get it to hold still while I adjust the nut, short of a pair of vise-grips?
_________________
I don’t believe in pixie dust, but I believe in magic.
1967 ZB D-10
1990 OMI Dobro
Recording King lap steel with Certano benders |
|
|
 |
Dave Stagner
From:
Minnesota, USA
|
Posted 31 Oct 2007 10:19 pm
|
|
I found myself a workaround... I adjusted the throw stop for the A pedal to get the 5 string to pull in tune, and then re-tuned the 10 string to match the new throw. (pardon me if I'm butchering the terminology here!)
Still doesn't solve the fundamental problem, though... I can't do the most basic adjustment on the most-used pedal. Grrr.
_________________
I don’t believe in pixie dust, but I believe in magic.
1967 ZB D-10
1990 OMI Dobro
Recording King lap steel with Certano benders |
|
|
|
Rick Abbott
From:
Indiana, USA
|
Posted 1 Nov 2007 6:30 am
|
|
Dave,
I am in the same learning process that you are. I have figured a couple of things out so far, and had some good advise from our Forummite brothers. Does the barrel in question have the little nub of wire protruding past the tip of the end up next to the rack? If not, make it so! Also, if you keep adjusting the pedal-throw of one pedal or another the feel of the pedals can get really bad. Make your pedals feel good under foot and then work on the rest. Hope this is helpful.
_________________
RICK ABBOTT
Sho~Bud D-10 Professional #7962
Remington T-8, Sehy #112
1975 Peavey Pacer |
|
|
|
Steve Waltz
From:
USA
|
Posted 1 Nov 2007 9:02 am
|
|
| If the spring in the barrel isn't sticking out far enough to attach it'self to the rack then it will not hold the front part in plce while the tuning rod rotates the back part of the barrel. You would need to repair the spring and you can search past topics for that, but a quick fix for today.....find the barrel that is not working. Look under the guitar and put your finger on the front part of the barrel, the part that hits the rack first. Hold the front part and turn the tuning wrench. That basically does the same thing by holding the front in place so that the rod adjusts the pitch. |
|
|
|
Dave Stagner
From:
Minnesota, USA
|
Posted 1 Nov 2007 9:16 am
|
|
| Steve Walz wrote: |
| If the spring in the barrel isn't sticking out far enough to attach it'self to the rack then it will not hold the front part in plce while the tuning rod rotates the back part of the barrel. You would need to repair the spring and you can search past topics for that, but a quick fix for today.....find the barrel that is not working. Look under the guitar and put your finger on the front part of the barrel, the part that hits the rack first. Hold the front part and turn the tuning wrench. That basically does the same thing by holding the front in place so that the rod adjusts the pitch. |
I'll look for that... a couple of springs were detached and I might not have gotten them all. This rod is different from the others, though... most of them have hooks to keep them on the levers, but this one just goes through, with threaded adjustments because a single rod is shared by two pedals. Hmmm.
_________________
I don’t believe in pixie dust, but I believe in magic.
1967 ZB D-10
1990 OMI Dobro
Recording King lap steel with Certano benders |
|
|
|
Bob Tuttle
From:
Republic, MO 65738
|
Posted 1 Nov 2007 6:13 pm
|
|
| Sometimes those barrel tuners get dirty and don't turn very easily. You might try taking them off, unscrew them and clean and lubricate them so they will turn easier. |
|
|
|
Tim Bridges
From:
Hoover, Alabama, USA
|
Posted 1 Nov 2007 8:16 pm
|
|
| First of all, as suggested, clean all the barrels, make absolutely sure you have about 1/4" of the spring on the barrel sticking out to serve as a stop on the rack. If I gather what you're referring to, this would be the B>C# raise on pedals A and C for Emmons setup. You'll need to allow some slack in the pedal, but this is affected by the slack allowed for the barrel to engage the rack under the carriage. Adjust A pedal first and then do the same for the C pedal. This will require a barrel adjustment for both pedals. Then tune the nylon tuners. My professional had the allen screw heads at the end of the rod. Also, be sure the allen set screws are of good integrity on the barrels. I loved the sound of the Bud, but got a newer model and really enjoy the newer technology. In about a year, you'll be ready for somebody to upgrade the mechanics, or get a newer guitar. These rack and barrels don't keep their tuning very well. |
|
|
|
Dave Stagner
From:
Minnesota, USA
|
Posted 1 Nov 2007 8:37 pm
|
|
| Tim Bridges wrote: |
| First of all, as suggested, clean all the barrels, make absolutely sure you have about 1/4" of the spring on the barrel sticking out to serve as a stop on the rack. If I gather what you're referring to, this would be the B>C# raise on pedals A and C for Emmons setup. You'll need to allow some slack in the pedal, but this is affected by the slack allowed for the barrel to engage the rack under the carriage. Adjust A pedal first and then do the same for the C pedal. This will require a barrel adjustment for both pedals. Then tune the nylon tuners. My professional had the allen screw heads at the end of the rod. Also, be sure the allen set screws are of good integrity on the barrels. I loved the sound of the Bud, but got a newer model and really enjoy the newer technology. In about a year, you'll be ready for somebody to upgrade the mechanics, or get a newer guitar. These rack and barrels don't keep their tuning very well. |
Thanks. What can be done as far as upgrading the mechanics? I really like the sound of this one, and like that old-school sound in general. The feel, though, I could take or leave... I don't have enough experience with pedal steel to know what I like or dislike yet.
_________________
I don’t believe in pixie dust, but I believe in magic.
1967 ZB D-10
1990 OMI Dobro
Recording King lap steel with Certano benders |
|
|
|
Tim Bridges
From:
Hoover, Alabama, USA
|
Posted 1 Nov 2007 8:47 pm
|
|
| Duane Marrs & Jeff Surratt do an excellent job and from what I have read, Jon Coop is doing some amazing things with these old Bud's. Give them a call. They're both on the Links on the Intro page. |
|
|
|
James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
|
Posted 2 Nov 2007 1:57 am
|
|
| Quote: |
="Dave Stagner
What can be done as far as upgrading the mechanics? I really like the sound of this one, and like that old-school sound in general. The feel, though, I could take or leave... I don't have enough experience with pedal steel to know what I like or dislike yet. |
John Coop parts. I have had excellant results with my Professional. The tone actually got better, and the guitar plays the best it ever has. You won't miss the rack and barrel system.
 |
|
|
|
William Peters
From:
Effort, Pennsylvania, USA
|
Posted 2 Nov 2007 4:06 pm
|
|
| James Morehead wrote: |
...
John Coop parts. I have had excellant results with my Professional. The tone actually got better, and the guitar plays the best it ever has. You won't miss the rack and barrel system.
|
Dang thats pretty! What a craftsman!
_________________
Bill
Mullen RP SD12U, Carvin SX200C |
|
|
|
