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Topic: more fender 400 ques - Footpedal Adjustments and Turnbuckles |
Kristen Bruno
From:
Orlando, Florida, USA
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Posted 30 Aug 2007 8:27 am |
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I am going through the motions of getting the guitar ready with some ssuper help from a forum member. But as anyone new learning, I keep coming up with more questions. I searched the posts but could find the answers to these two questions:
Regarding the Fender 400 (cable system PSGs):
1. Are the footpedals supposed to touch the floor when fully depressed, or be above the floor by some set distance?
The pedal set screws adjust the "upper" height of the pedal, but there is no "stop" for the lower, so I was wondering if the floor was the actual lower "stop" point.
2. My turnbuckes twist the cable when I turn then. Its like like the cable is solidly attached to the end of the turnbuckle. So, in order to loosen them up I have to detach the hook end which attached to the floor pedal mechanism, loosen, and then reattach. This seems to work to loosen (or tighten the cable), - it only turns one end of the turnbuckle and attached cable, but nothing twists since the end of the cable is disconnected and turns with the cable. Am i suppose to use a wrench to hold one side of the turnbuckle while rotating the other end? Either I am not doing something wrong or something is stuck somewhere. Are ther any places that sell these types of turnbuckes?
3. I notice that some mods made to the Fenders have barrelstops and rods inplace of the cables and turnbuckles. Where can these things be found at? Are they local hardware items or specialty items for pedal steel guitar.
4. Has anyone used other types of adjustment mechanisms along the same nature as the turnbuckes and barrelstops, that are easy to find?
Thanks
Kristen |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 30 Aug 2007 11:53 am
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Sounds like the turnbuckles are gummed up, or someone has peened the threads or used some Loctite to keep them from moving. The did have atendency to move, but for me it wasn't a big deal It only takes a few seconds to reach under and spin them up. You must remember not to overtighten them, as that will pull the fingers off the stop and make tuning impossible. If they're clean and slightly oiled, you can "feel" with the pedals whether or not they're too loose or too tight. It's probably not a good idea to have the pedals bottom out on the floor, as this makes the pedal tuning dependent on the level of the floor. (If you move th steel slightly, the tuning would be out. And if you played on carpet, the mushiness would also make tuning impossible.)
The lack of pedal-stops on the old guitars makes it imperative that you learn not to press too hard, or you'll break the loops, or pull a solder joint loose. It takes a while to learn the "feel" of this instrument, but after you do, it's quite practical, and you won't have these sorts of problems.
These old cable guitars are definitely not for the husky, club-footed player who doesn't know his own strength, and can't regulate his pedal pressure! |
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Tim Whitlock
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 30 Aug 2007 12:49 pm
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I agree with Donny. Maybe the turnbuckle threads are corroded or stuck. You should be able to turn them with just your fingertips. My A pedal turnbuckle requires that I reach underneath several time each night to snug it up. You might try cleaning them up with a little WD40. There should be some sag in your cables when properly adjusted .
The pedals should not be touching the floor. The pedal travel stops when the changer reaches the end of the pull. If the pedal hits the floor first you'll have trouble getting the pulled note in tune. Try turning the pedal set screws counterclockwise a turn or two and then shortening your rods so the pedals are off the floor a couple of inches. If they still hit the floor when you pedal down then your cables must be too slack or there must be something wrong with the changer.
In regards to mods, I humbly suggest you get your guitar in good working order, as is, and start playing it. The four pedals can take you very far. Once you know what your guitar can do, then you can have a better idea about what more you might want for it. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 30 Aug 2007 8:09 pm
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Kristen, we really did go over all this -
The turnbuckles are gummed up or have been crossthreaded, as they should move easily. Flush them out as discussed, try the teflonlube - if that does not work there's something jammming them up. Pictures of the particular ones you are dealing with would really help.
The pedals should NOT touch the floor - you have some average movement numbers to work with.
Replacing cables with rods can be done - but it's major surgery and completely uncessary for what you're trying to do. Plus, if you are having trouble working out the very simple cable mechanism, trying to build a rodded guitar would be WAY beyond where you want to go. It would be an interesting project if you were a machinist or wanted to do major mods - but not in this case. What youwant to play will take some simple chages, and it's all been laid out.
If those turnbuckles are just not cooperating under any circumstances, there are a couple of options - email me amd if you don't mind doing without for a few days you can send them to me and I'll check them over for nothing. If they HAVE to be replaced it's not a big deal...parts are chap. Originals aren't around, but workable substitutes are.
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No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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